WHERE ARE MY SLEEVES?!

While knitting the sweater I’ve been constantly hearing this question, that is why it was easy to come up with this name.  So, here is a very simple hoodie for my Dear Husband.  No sleeves! No shoulder seams either. Front zipper and hood zipper. Hood zipper allows to wear it just as a generously sized collar when unzipped.

Size: XXL.

Yarn: about 3 pounds of naturally  true black alpaca yarn, beautiful and shiny, from “Oak-Leigh Peacocks and Alpaca” farm . True black is the rarest and the most precious alpaca color. Unlike with other animals, alpaca’s black color gene is recessive, i.e. even if the mother-alpaca and the father-alpaca are both black the baby can be of a different color. This is exactly the same yarn as for my “Yellow Submarine”. And I will whine again about making photos of black sweaters: OMG, how difficult it was… As I have already noted, if the light is flattering for the face of a model, the sweater looks just like a big black hole (the deeper the black color is the less discernible is the garment), and vice versa: if the light falls sideways you can tell what the sweater is like; but it is usually not good for the face to be highlighted from one side. When the sunset lighting was perfect both for the sweater and the face (one time in Florida), my model was not in the mood to pose, and in addition… I unexpectedly ran out of batteries. Poor me.

 

Needles: #5
Zippers:

1) YKK #5 Nylon coil separating zippper, customized length – 44”
2) YKK#5 Nylon coil boot zipper, closed bottom, length - 18”

4 stitch markers

Gauge: 4” (10 cm) = 18 sts (stockinet stitch).

Main stitch pattern: Royal Diamonds (RD) - multiple of 12+13 sts
25 stitches x 16 rows
Stitch Key  

RunThreadInc: Pick up the running thread that lies before the next stitch and knit it.

 

Set-up row (RS): sl1, k12, p2, k3, *p7, k5; rep from * to last 25 sts, p7, k3, p2, k12, p1.

Next row (WS): sl1, p12, k2, place marker (pm), p3, k7, *p5, k7; rep to the last 18 sts, p3, pm, k2, p13.

Row 1: K1, RunThreadInc, k2, *p2, p3tog, p2, k2, RunThreadInc, k1, RunThreadInc, k2; rep from * to last 10 sts, p2, p3tog, p2, k2, RunThreadInc, k1.

Row 2: Work as established (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches).

Row 3: K2, RunThreadInc, k2, *p1, p3tog, p1, k2, RunThreadInc, k3, RunThreadInc, k2; rep from * to last 9 sts, p1, p3tog, p1, k2, RunThreadInc, k2.

Row 4: Work as established.

Row 5: K3, RunThreadInc, k2, *p3tog, k2, RunThreadInc, k5, RunThreadInc, k2; rep from * to last 8 sts, p3tog, k2, RunThreadInc, k3.

Row 6: Work as established.

Row 7: K6, p1, *k11, p1; rep from * to last 6 sts, k6.

Row 8: K4, p5, *k7, p5; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 9: P2tog, p2, *k2, RunThreadInc, k1, RunThreadInc, k2, p2, p3tog, p2; rep from * to last 9sts, k2, RunThreadInc, k1, RunThreadInc, k2, p2, p2tog.

Row 10: Work as established.

Row 11: P2tog, p1, *k2, RunThreadInc, k3, RunThreadInc, k2, p1, p3tog, p1; rep from * to last 10 sts, k2, RunThreadInc, k3, RunThreadInc, k2, p1, p2tog.

Row 12: Work as established.

Row 13: P2tog, *k2, RunThreadInc, k5, RunThreadInc, k2, p3tog; rep from * to last 11 sts, k2, RunThreadInc, k5, RunThreadInc, k2, p2tog.

Row 14: Work as established.

Row 15: *P1, k11; rep from * to last 1 st, p1.

Row 16: P3, k7, *p5, k7; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Repeat rows 1-16 for pat.

For trimming – Cables:

20 stitches x 30 rows 

Stitch Key
  c6b:  Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit 3, knit the stitches on the cable needle.

  c6f:  Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Knit 3, knit the stitches on the cable needle.

 Rows 1 - 30:

Row 1 (Right Side): k6, p2, k12.

Row 2 (Wrong Side): p12, k2, p6.

Row 3: c6b, p2, c6b, c6f.

Row 4: p12, k2, p6.

Row 5: k6, p2, k12.

Row 6: p12, k2, p6.

Row 7: k6, p2, k12.

Row 8: p12, k2, p6.

Row 9: c6b, p2, c6b, c6f.

Row 10: p12, k2, p6.

Row 11: k6, p2, k3, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k4.

Row 12: p3, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, p4, k2, p6.

Row 13: k6, p2, k4, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k3.

Row 14: p4, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, p3, k2, p6.

Row 15: c6b, p2, k3, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k4.

Row 16: p3, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, p4, k2, p6.

Row 17: k6, p2, k4, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k3.

Row 18: p4, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, p3, k2, p6.

Row 19: k6, p2, k3, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k4.

Row 20: p3, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, p4, k2, p6.

Row 21: c6b, p2, c6f, c6b.

Row 22: p12, k2, p6.

Row 23: k6, p2, k12.

Row 24: p12, k2, p6.

Row 25: k6, p2, k12.

Row 26: p12, k2, p6.

Row 27: c6b, p2, c6f, c6b.

Row 28: p12, k2, p6.

Row 29: k6, p2, k12.

Row 30: p12, k2, p6.

 Note about selvage stitches: Always slip the first stitch in the beginning of each row and purl the last stitch in the end of each row. In such a way you will have a chain of selvage stitches, - one vertical loop for each 2 rows - on each side of a knitted piece. They will be used to simplify row count and later when assembling this particular vest, they will play an important role: because I use inside-out seams, they will form the nice rows on the right side of the sweater.

 Back:

Italian cast on: 195 sts. After 4 rows of hollow ribbing and 1 row 1x1, start Royal Diamonds chart (1st and 195th stitches are ss and not included in the chart).  1st row of Royal Diamonds: ss, 6 sts of the chart, then repeat 7…18 sts 15 times and finish the row with 19-25 sts). 

Work Royal Diamonds stitch repeat almost 8 times, starting to shape the armhole in the 17^th row of the last repeat. 

Armhole shaping: Bind off 15 stitches at the beginning of the row, knit 11 (as a result we have 12 sts on the right needle), purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, place a marker, and finish17-th RD row as usual.

Wrong side row: Bind off 15 sts, 11p (as a result we have 12 sts on the right needle), k 2, p 4, k 2, place marker, and finish 18th RD row as usual. 

Total: 165 sts on the needles.

 Continue to work straight. Between the stitch markers work RD stitch repeat 4 times, and in the beginning and the end of the rows work the cable chart (the cable pattern is separated from the stitch markers by 2 purls). Don’t make selvage stitches, just the cable chart.

 Shoulder line and neckline shaping: 

Continue RD chart (5^th time). In the 8-th row of the chart place central 47 sts on the stitch holder and start working 2 halves of the front separately.  This is the row where shoulder stitches would be. So, work 59 sts of the left front and place them on the stitch holder, work central 47 sts and slip the on another stitch holder, and continue 59 sts to the end of the row. Turn, work 59 sts to the end of the right side row and cast on 35 sts.

Right front:

Turn, 1ss, p 12, k 2, p 6, k 2, place a stitch marker, then k3, p7, k5 etc. according to the pattern. 

Yes, front opening has selvage stitches described in the beginning, and the arm opening doesn’t.

Work straight. Between the stitch markers work RD, and in the beginning and the end of the rows work the cable chart (the cable pattern is separated from the stitch markers by 2 purls).

When the distance from the armhole opening will equal 9 RD chart repeats, stop cable armhole trimming and cast on 15 stitches in the end of the wrong side row. Work straight 8 RD chart repeats.

Work 1 row 1x1 ribbing, then 4 rows or hollow ribbing and make Italian cast off.

Left front: the same way as the right front, reversing all shaping. (Yes, she was supervising and helping me a lot!)

Hood:

Pick 53 sts from the right front neckline, making even increases not along the cable, but along the RD part, the 47 sts from the center, and 53 sts from the left front neckline. Mark the center of the back. Work straight 6 RD chart repeats (at the same time continue 22 sts cable trim on the edges) and bind off.

How to prepare the fronts for attaching the zipper:

The zippers will be sewn in the grooves formed by 2 narrow bands along the edges:

1)       along the half of the front and hood pick from every 2 selvage stitches 3 stitches (working on the right side). The front zipper may not go all the way to the end of the hood because above the neckline it becomes rather decorative than functional – but the bands still have to be made from the bottom to the very top. Turn and purl all the stitches the end of the row (wrong side). Turn, knit all the stitches to the end of the row (right side). Turn, knit all the stitches to the end of the row (wrong side). Turn and bind off all the stitches knit-wise.

2)       Working on the wrong side of the same piece, pick the same number of stitches from the same selvage stitches. Turn and purl all the stitches the end of the row. Turn, knit all the stitches to the end of the row. Turn, knit all the stitches to the end of the row. Turn and bind off all the stitches knit-wise.

Trim the other half of the front.

Trim the same way both halves of the hood.

Sewing in the zipper: The zippers are sewn in between the narrow trimming bands. Never stretch the knitting fabric, rather ease it in. First step – pinning. Then - basting with thin strong thread of the matching color (this allows to leave it in after sewing), and then – actual hand sewing with very small stitches or on a sewing machine.

 Sew together the front and the back but not all the way to the bottom, leave side slits about 5” long or as much as you like.

Mmmm... definitely not my size...

So, WHERE ARE MY SLEEVES? :-)

 

ENGINEER'S SWEATER

The sweater is made for Volodia, electronic engineer from Toronto - Canada. We met with him and his wife Irina at our first job at the research institute of TV technologies. We worked at the same lab, and shortly we became close friends. Much water has flown under the bridge since that time, I’m not an engineer anymore, but he is, and a very good one :-).

I wanted this sweater to look like their soft-colored calico cat Sonia (this is their second calico. The first one, Basia, whom I introduced to them about… OMG… 20 years ago, was adorable too but quite different. We will always remember her). By coincidence, when I asked him what colors he preferred he listed all the Sonia’s colors. So, the color part was easy, and I used “Flowers” from Flowers sweater  - just because I knew that color sequence by heart and didn’t want to make life more complicated than it was.

What about the design of the “Engineer’s Sweater”? Something modular… unusual… multidirectional… very smart… never seen before… probably worth patenting :-)… NO. Intermingling variegated colors of both yarns produce very interesting effects, which I started to like still at the stage of the swatches. That is why I decided to make the sweater extremely simple - no design at all. But 2-color knitting all over the body (except for the ribbings) and fingering weight yarn made it the most labor consuming thing I have ever made. And I enjoyed every minute of this slow work, admiring this beautiful fabric growing in my hands, this luxurious blend of colors… To add even more chic I finished all the ribbings with Italian cast-off.

Materials: Knitpicks' Imagination hand-painted sock yarn (50% Merino Wool, 25% Superfine Alpaca, 25% Nylon; 219 yards/50 gram): 5 hanks of “Sasquatch” (darker color) and 4 hanks of “Castle Walls” (lighter color).

Needles no.4, circular needle no.4, several small safety pins, 1 large safety pin (stitch holder), and a darning needle for Italian binding-off.

Gauge: 4” (10 cm) of 2-color knitting = 23.5 sts.

Note about selvage stitches (ss): Always slip the first stitch in the beginning of each row and purl the last stitch in the end of each row. In such a way you will have a chain of selvage stitches, - one vertical loop for each 2 rows - on each side of a knitted piece.

Back

Cast on 143 sts (7 flowers + 2selvage stitches) and follow the color scheme. Work without any changes 39 selvage stitches (ss.) up.

(Right side): For the armholes bind off in the beginning of every row 5 sts – 1 time, 4 sts – 1 time, 3 sts – 1 time, 2 st – 2 times, 1 sts 2 times (107 sts on the needle now). Mark the last selvage stitches at both sides with safety pins.

Work without any changes 15 ss. (30 rows) up.

(Right side): To shape the shoulder and the neckline, bind off 10 sts, work 13 sts, bind off 61 sts (neckline), work 23 ss.

In the next row (wrong side) bind off 10 sts in the beginning of the row, work 13 sts.

In the next row bind off 3 sts in the beginning of the row, work to the end of the row.

In the next row bind off all the sts.

In the same way finish the opposite side of the piece.

Front

Cast on 143 sts (7 flowers + 2selvage stitches) and follow the color scheme. Work without any changes 39 selvage stitches (ss.) up.

(Right side): For the armholes, exactly like for the back piece, bind off in the beginning of every row 5 sts – 1 time, 4 sts – 1 time, 3 sts – 1 time, 2 st – 2 times, 1 sts 2 times (107 sts on the needle are left). Mark the last selvage stitches at both sides with safety pins.

*********************************************

At the same time, shape the V-neck: after binding off 4 stitches from both sides for the armholes, mark the center stitch with a safety pin. This will be our front center stitch FCS.

In the right side row work until the FCS, let it slip to a small safety pin, then knit 3 with dark yarn, knit 2 together and continue with both yarn to the end of the row. Turn.

In the next row (wrong side) work with 2 yarns until you see 5 sts before the FCT, and with dark yarn only purl 2 together and purl 3. Slip the left half of the front piece to the large safety pin (stitch holder), it will be finished later the same way as the right side.

Continue with the left half only. Along the V neck line work as follows:

1. Don’t make selvage stitches along the neckline by slipping the first stitch from the left to the right needle because it makes the knitted fabric a little tight at the edge; but continue to make ss on the other side, along the arm openings;

2. Make decreases in each row (wrong and right side) at the same place (3 sts away from the edge) until the piece equals 20 sts; then work straight.

3. 3 edge sts and the decrease (2 together) of the V-neckline are supposed to be made with dark yarn only all the time. When piece equals 20 sts, 3 edge sts and the next one will be made with dark yarn only to frame the neckline evenly.

***********************************************End of V-neckline description.

Work without any changes 15 ss. (30 rows) up from the marked ss. To shape the shoulder, work exactly like with the back piece: in the wrong row bind off 10 sts, and work to the end of the row. Then turn, work to the end of the row. Bind off all the stitches.

The right side of the front piece is finished. Replace the large safety pin with a needle, and make the right half exactly the same way.

Note: The lines of decreases along the V-neckline should look nice and symmetrical; this is the most visible part that attracts attention. We all use different techniques for purl and knit stitches (American, continental, semi-continental, etc.), so make sure you use the right techniques to make these lines pretty.

When finished, spread the back and front and lightly iron the right sides through a wet cotton cloth, without pressing. Let them rest until totally dry. 2 pictures to compare the knitted fabric before and after ironing:

Before ironing

After ironing

Sleeve

 Cast on 63 sts (61 sts for 3 flowers+2 ss) and work increasing 1 stitch each side on every 3rd row until 107 sts are on the needle. Continue to work without increasing until the piece is 39 ss long (78 rows). Bind off in the beginning of every row 5 sts 1 time, 4 sts 1 time, 3 st 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1stitch 3 times, 2 sts 1 times, 3 sts 1 time, 4 sts 2 times, and 5 sts 2 times. Bind all the stitches off, mark the center stitch.

Lightly iron the sleeves as the back and the front.

V-neck ribbing

 First of all shoulder seams should be finished with mattress stitch.

With a circular needle, starting at the left shoulder seam on the right side of the sweater cast 45 stitches from the seam till the front center stitch (FCS), slip FCS to the right needle but don’t remove the pin, cast 45 stitches from FCP to the right shoulder seam, and 45 sts on the back between the shoulder seams. When casting on, don’t pull the yarn through the edge stitch but through the next one, this looks better. Turn (I didn’t make the V-neck trim seamless).

(Wrong side) *Insert the right needle into the base of the stitch that is on the left needle and pull the yarn through it, casting on a stitch, then slip the existing stitch, which was made in the previous row, purl-wise from the left to the right hand needle, keeping yarn before the stitch*. Continue from * to * until all the stitches from the left needle are doubled in this way. Don’t double FCS, just slip it from the left to the right needle.

(Right side) Knit all the knit stitches (i.e. stitches that were casted on in the first row) and slip purl-wise all the stitches made in the previous row from the left to the right hand needle, keeping the yarn before the stitch. Special treatment for FCS:

1. In each right side row stop 2 stitches before FCS;

2. Change the order of the stitches on the left hand needle so that FCS is on the first place;

3. Slip FCS from the left to the right needle;

4. Knit 4 together;

5. Slip FCS through the obtained stitch.

Make 3 more rows in the same way, forming “hollow ribbing”. Slip FCS from the right to the left in the wrong side rows and treat it as described above in the right side rows.

Then in the right side row work as follows: *1 k, 1 k, 2 k together* to the end of the row.

Then work 8-9 rows of 2x2 ribbing, making selvage stitches by slipping the first stitch of each row from the left to the right needle and purling the last stitch of each row. Make sure that if you started with ss and 2 k, the last stitches of the row are 2 p and ss. If it is not so, make or decrease a couple of stitches. In this way the seam on the V-neck ribbing, which we will make later, will be invisible.

Then work a row of 1x1 ribbing. If your first 2 stitches are k, make the transition as follow: 1k, *switch the order of the next 2 stitches on the left hand needle, 1p, 1k, 1p, 1k* to the end of the row. If your first 2 stitches are p, make the transition as follow: 1p, *switch the order of the next 2 stitches on the left hand needle, 1k, 1p, 1k, 1p* to the end of the row.

Then work 4 rows of the “hollow ribbing” and make Italian cast off with a darning needle (see lots of videos on youtube).

Stitch together the short sides of the V-neck ribbing at the left shoulder.

Armhole ribbing

Exactly like for the V-neck, but cast on 88 sts along the armhole. And we don’t have a center stitch to take special care of!

Bottom sleeve ribbing

At the bottom of the sleeve cast on 42 sts and work 20 rows 2 x 2 ribbing. Then make a transition to 1 x 1 ribbing, 4 rows of “hollow ribbing”, and bind off with the darning needle as described above.

Bottom front ribbing

at the bottom of the front piece cast on 106 sts and work 20 rows 2 x 2 ribbing. Then make a transition to 1 x 1 ribbing, 4 rows of “hollow ribbing”, and bind off with the darning needle as described above.
Bottom back ribbing - exactly like for the front.

Assembly

Finish the side seams on the sweater and on the sleeves. Insert sleeves in the armholes. The free edge of the ribbed trim should rest loosely on the sleeve.

On me

With Sonia

Od-Op Top

Will introduce here something absolutely different from “12 Men’s Character Sweaters”. Those 3 remaining men’s sweaters will be posted soon (2 of them are almost ready), but today we will celebrate the springtime :-)

With this Od-Op Top I’m starting "12 Nautical Tops for 12 Pretty Girls".This project will be a tribute to my Daddy. I think he would love the idea!  Although he retired from the navy service in 60s, he always loved the sea and everything associated with it. He owned a lot of nautical uniform undershirts and proudly wore them from time to time.

Od-Op Top is inspired by the warm summer atmosphere of Odessa Opera House located by the Black Sea maritime port. Anja is wearing it with a silver necklace pinned as a brooch.

Yarn: Elann Esprit (98.3% cotton/1.7% elastic). Colors: French Navy + Natural.

2 balls of each for size XS and S, 3 balls of each for size M and L.

Needles: #4 (3.5 mm) and a crochet hook #3 if the straps are to be crocheted.

Gauge: 20 sts = 4” (10 cm) on stockinet

Sizes: XS-S-M-L

Schematics with measurements:

Note: all the measurements are provided for a non-stretched piece that is why the piece is much smaller than the dimensions or the top when worn. Front and back pieces are identical. Straps are about 16” long, open work trimming band is 20” long.


Main Stitch pattern:

Start with navy color. 4 rows in 3x2 rib. Switch to natural color, 1row - all k, 3 rows of 3x2 rib. Switch to navy, 1 row – all k, switch to natural, etc. When switching a color, always knit 1 row to get solid stripes.

Lace pattern:

yo – yarn over

k2tog – knit 2 together

Cast on 13 sts. Rows 1 – 16:

Row 1 (Right Side): slip 1 purlwise, k6, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2.
Row 2 and all even rows: yo, k2tog, all k till the end of the row
Row 3: slip 1 purlwise, k5, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, k2, yo, k2.
Row 5: slip 1 purlwise, k6, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, k2, yo, k2.
Row 7: slip 1 purlwise, k7, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, k2, yo, k2.
Row 9: slip 1 purlwise, k5, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 11: slip 1 purlwise, k4, [k2tog, yo] 2 times, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 13: slip 1 purlwise, k5, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 15: slip 1 purlwise, k4, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1.

Swatch

Back and Front (identical): Cast on 67-77-92-117 sts (65-75-90-115 sts + 2 selvage stitches) and work straight 28 rows (7 strips).

In the 3rd row of the 8th stripe decrease evenly 7-8-9-11 sts (right side row: 1 ss, *k2tog, 1k, 2 p, 3k, 2p*, repeat *…* to the end of the row).

Work straight 5 more stripes (9th through 13th), then in the 3rd row of the 14th stripe decrease evenly 6-7-9-10 sts by switching completely to 2x2 ribbing.

Work straight 13 stripes (15th through 27th), then in the 3rd row of the 28th stripe add evenly 7-8-9-11 sts in the same spots where the first decreases were made.

Work straight 2-3-6-13 stripes and cast off. Make 1 more piece.

(Note about selvage stitches (ss): Always slip the first stitch purlwise (with yarn in back) in the beginning of each row and purl the last stitch in the end of each row.).

Lace trimming band: cast on 13 sts and repeat the lace pattern (all 16 rows) 13-14-16-18 times.

Knit (I-cord) or crochet the straps (approximately 16’/40 cm each), or use 1 yard of purchased ribbon.

Assembly: assemble side seams of the bodice and the trimming band using mattress stitch. Pin together upper edges of the trimming and the bodice (right side of the bodice to the wrong side of the trimming). Attach the trimming easing in as appropriate; attach the straps making necessary adjustment. Loosely sew on the tips of the trimming corners to the bodice, otherwise they will stick out. Decorate with a brooch or a corsage flower.