Another sweater for another very good friend from Odessa, Ukraine J. What amazes me about Nickolas: he makes me wonder if the soviet times really ever happened to us or it was just a bad dream. Nickolas looks and behaves as if he grew up in different times or in a different country. His gentle attitude and regal self-composure inspired me to knit something “time-and-place-defying” for him. Yes, I used huge opulent Costume Encyclopedias J . And I have a feeling that this sweater rhymes somehow not only with his appearance and personality, but also with his beautiful family, countless pets, and network engineering…
Materials:21 balls of KnitPicks Merino Style yarn (100% merino wool), each ball 50 g /1.75 ounces – 123 m/112 yards.
Needles #6/4 mm (or size to obtain gauge).
Sewing needle.
Gauge - 17 stitches in 10 cm/4” worked on simple knit (although simple knit is nowhere used here).
Size – M-L
Although it looks complicated, this is the easiest and the most classical sweater I’ve made so far. It has one-piece front, one-piece back, 2 sleeves, collar… and nothing more. Nothing is detachable or assembled from several panels or patches. Each detail is worked bottom-up, starting with ribbing. The main Royal Diamond stitch (see diagram) just looks complicated but actually doesn’t have anything to do with cables. I have to give credit to Natasha from Siberia who showed to me this beautiful reversible stitch (I feel I will use more than once in my life). For this sweater I used right side of it for the Front and Back and the wrong side – for the sleeves. Hard to believe, but it is the same stitch.
Enough simple Cable Stitch pattern V-frames the front center triangle of Crossed Ribbing. The Back and the sleeves are made completely out of Royal Diamond stitch. Arm seams where the sleeves are attached to the body are adorned with simple sewed-on cables 3x3.
Royal Diamond Stitch Pattern
RunThreadInc: Pick up the running thread that lies before the next stitch and knit it. It is not supposed to be a hole here like in open-work patterns!
RunThreadIncPurl: Pick up the running thread that lies before the next stitch and purl it. No hole!
k2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.
VertDblDec (knit 3 together, balanced): Slip next 2 stitches together knitwise, knit next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches over knit stitch.
p3tog: Purl the next 3 stitches together.
p2tog: Purl the next 2 stitches together.
For a swatch cast on (12 x N + 13) sts (i. e. 25, or 37, or 49, …..sts).
Rows 1 - 14 :
Row 1 (Right Side): k3, p3, *p4, k5, p3*, p4, k3.
Row 2 (and all even numbered rows): as established.
Row 3: k1, RunThreadInc, k2, p2, * p3tog, p2, k2, RunThreadInc, k1, RunThreadInc, k2, p2*, p3tog, p2, k2, RunThreadInc, k1.
Row 5: k2, RunThreadInc, k2, p1, *p3tog, p1, k2, RunThreadInc, k3, RunThreadInc, k2, p1*, p3tog, p1, k2, RunThreadInc, k2.
Row 7: p3, RunThreadIncPurl, k2, *VertDblDec, k2, RunThreadIncPurl, p5, RunThreadIncPurl, k2*, VertDblDec, k2, RunThreadIncPurl, p3.
Row 9: p2tog, p2, k2, RunThreadInc, *k1, RunThreadInc, k2, p2, p3tog, p2, k2, RunThreadInc*, k1, RunThreadInc, k2, p2, p2tog.
Row 11: p2tog, p1, k2, RunThreadInc, k1, *k2, RunThreadInc, k2, p1, p3tog, p1, 2k, RunThreadInc, k1*, k2, RunThreadInc, k2, p1, p2tog.
Row 13: k2tog, k2, RunThreadIncPurl, p2, *p3, RunThreadIncPurl, k2, VertDblDec, k2, RunThreadIncPurl, p2*, p3, RunThreadIncPurl, k2, k2tog.
Row 14: as established.
Repeat rows 3-14.
Right Side
Wrong Side
Crossed ribbing
Stitch Key
c2b: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit the next stitch, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
c2f: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Knit 1, knit the stitch on the cable needle.
Row 1 (Right Side): k2, p2.
Row 2 (Wrong Side): as established
Row 3: c2f, p2.
Row 4: as established.
Row 5: c2b, p2.
Row 6: as established.
Repeat rows 3-6.
Cable Stitch
20 stitches x 44 rows
Stitch Key
c6b: Slip next 3 stitches onto cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit 3, knit the stitches on the cable needle.
c6f: Slip next 3 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Knit 3, knit the stitches on the cable needle.
c2b: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit the next stitch, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
c2f: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Knit 1, knit the stitch on the cable needle.
Rows 1 - 44
Row 1 (Right Side): k2, p2, k2, p2, k12.
Row 2 and all even numbered rows: (Wrong Side): as established
Row 3: c2f, p2, c2f, p2, c6b, c6f.
Row 5: c2b, p2, c2b, p2, k12.
Row 7: c2f, p2, c2f, p2, k12.
Row 9: c2b, p2, c2b, p2, c6b, c6f.
Row 11: c2f, p2, c2f, p2, k12.
Row 13: c2b, p2, c2b, p2, k12.
Row 15: c2f, p2, c2f, p2, c6b, c6f.
Row 17: c2b, p2, c2b, p2, k12.
Row 19: c2f, p2, c2f, p2, k12.
Row 21: k6, p2, c6b, c6f.
Row 23: k6, p2, k3, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k4.
Row 25: k6, p2, k3, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k4.
Row 27: c6b, p2, k4, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k3.
Row 29: k6, p2, k3, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k4.
Row 31: k6, p2, k4, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k3.
Row 33: c6b, p2, c6f, c6b.
Row 35: k6, p2, k12.
Row 37: k6, p2, k12.
Row 39: c6b, p2, c6f, c6b.
Row 41: k6, p2, k12.
Row 43: k6, p2, k12.
Row 44: as established.
Repeat rows 15-44, but continuing 3x3 side cable as established (instead of crossed ribbing).
I would recommend starting with the Back to get used to the Royal Diamond stitch and all its peculiarities. The shape of the Back is very simple and provides good practice with the stitch pattern. In this way, when you start the Front where Royal Diamond is combined with Cables and Crossed Ribbing, this stitch will be well familiar and all the increases and decreases associated with center ribbing inset will be done routinely without difficulties.
Note about selvage stitches (ss): Always slip the first stitch in the beginning of each row and purl the last stitch in the end of each row. In such a way you will have a chain of selvage stitches, - one vertical loop for each 2 rows - on each side of a knitted piece.
BACK:
Cast on 108 sts and work 19 rows of Crossed Ribbing. In 20th row (wrong side, all purls) evenly add 39 sts (147 sts total). Work straight 38 ss (76 rows) with Royal Diamond Stitch and try not to be bored.
For the armholes cast off 12 sts from both sides (123 sts left).
Work straight 34 ss (68rows). To shape the neckline: in the right row work 46 sts, cast off the middle 31 sts and work to the end of the row. In the next wrong side row purl together 2 last sts, in the next right row knit together first 2 sts, cast off all the sts in the right side row. In the same way finish the opposite side of the piece.
FRONT:
Cast on 111 sts. = 1 ss + 34 sts of Crossed ribbing + 20 sts of Cable stitch + 1p + 20 sts of mirrored Cable stitch + 34 sts of Crossed ribbing + 1 ss.
Row 1 (right side): 1 ss, (2p, 2k) 8 times, 2p, place a stitch marker, Cable stitch (20 sts), 1 p, mirrored cable stitch (20 sts), place a stitch maker, 2p, (2k, 2p) 8 times, 1ss.
Row 2 (wrong side) and all evenly numbered rows rows exept 20th : work as established.
Work 19 rows of Crossed ribbing and Cable Stitch. In 20th (wrong side) row purl all the 34 sts of Crossed stitch at the same increasing each side evenly by 19 sts (make 1, purl 2, make 1, purl 2 until each side is equal 34+19=53) (Total= 111+19+19=149 sts). Work Cable Stitches in the middle without changes.
Row 21. Work as follow: 1 ss, 51 sts of Royal Diamond Stitch instead of Crossed Rib, 2 p, stitch marker, Cable stitch (20 sts), 1 p – center stitch, mirrored cable stitch (20 sts), 2p, 51 sts of Royal Diamond Stitch instead of Crossed Rib (make the left side mirrored to the right side), 1 ss.
Row 23. In this row the cables start to divert from the center to form a V. From both sides of 1 p – center stitch we will make 1 sts, and to compensate this we will purl 2 together right before the first stitch marker and right after the second one. Starting with this row, in every other right side row (27, 31, 35 etc.) we will purl 2 together right before the first stitch marker, make one immediately after Cable stitch pattern and before the mirrored Cable stitch pattern, and purl 2 together just after the second stitch marker. The center sts are worked in Crossed ribbing pattern. Continue this way until there are just 15 sts left on each side for the Royal Diamond Pattern, then work the cables straight.
Like on the Back, bind off for the armholes 12 sts from both sides (Total=149-12-12=125 sts). Work 28 ss (56 rows) straight.
To shape the neckline: in the right row work 56 sts, cast off the middle 13 sts and work to the end of the row 56 sts. In the next wrong side row purl together 2 last sts. In the next right side row bind off first 2 sts and work to the end of the row. Decrease in the beginning of every right side row 2, 1 and 1 sts, and then work straight until the FRONT reaches the length of the BACK (approximately 36 ss (72 rows) after armhole shaping). Then cast off all the sts. In the same way finish the opposite side of the piece.
COLLAR:
After completing the shoulder seams with mattress stitch, cast on 102 sts on the neck line and work Crossed Rib stitch 25 cm or 10” long, bind off very loosely. The collar can be made separately and then sewn on the neckline – will save lots of time and energy. Sew the 10” collar seam with inside-out mattress stitch; the seam is not to be visible but the right side of Crossed Rib has to be visible when the collar is folded to the right side, so don’t mix up the wrong and right side of the collar when assembling.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 50 sts and work 19 rows with Crossed Ribbing. In 20th row (wrong side, all knits) evenly add 25 sts (75 sts total). Work 60 ss (120 rows) with Royal Diamond Stitch wrong side out: 4 rows – straight, then increasing 1 stitch each side on every 2nd row 18 times, then 1 stitch each side on every row to obtain 111 sts on the needle. While increasing, include your added stitches into “diamonds”.
Then decrease in the beginning on every row: 1 st 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 4 sts 1 time, 5 sts 1 time, 6 sts 1 time and 7 sts 1 time. Bind them off the remaining sts.
Note: when making sleeves where the wrong side serves as the right one, I would introduce a little change in Royal Diamond Stitch Pattern: every time you purl 3 together, do it in such a way that on the other side it looks like a balanced Vertical Double Decrease. I provide the photo where the columns of vertical double decreases are clearly visible on the sleeves, but not the description how to do this. We all purl in different ways, and I’m afraid I will confuse some of the knitters who work their purls not like me. That is why I suggest to experiment on your own and find the easy way to purl 3 together getting on the other side a symmetrical stitch.
ASSEMBLING:
1) Attach the sleeves (flat);
3) Make the side seams and sleeve seams.
4) Sew together the short sides of the sleeve cable strips and hide loose ends of threads under this cable like in a pipe.
5) Finish the bottom ends of 2 front cables to make them look like pointing down arrows.
END
Some more photos:
 |
| Friendly hug |
 |
| On me, as usual... |
 |
| Nickolas loves to sail, and he was wearing a nautical top underneath the Royal Sweater during the photo shooting |
