словно листья, словно листья к ноябрю."
Jack Deloney I started with Bulat Okudzhava’s poem "Как научиться рисовать" (“Learning to paint”). Here is the link to the video with Okudzhava reading the poem himself:
Here it is translated into English by a Russian poet and translator A. Vagapov:
If you would like to become a great artist
don’t rush to paint, make it best.
All sorts of paints, badges brushes lay out
right in front of you, first;
now you should start choosing paints; take the white one
it’s the beginning, and then
pick up the yellow paint, it will imply that
everything ripens, and then
pick up the gray paint in order that autumn
might splash the sky pattern with lead,
pick up the black paint because as is known
all has beginning and end,
pick up the violet paint, do not spare it,
laugh and shed tears, and then
pick up the blue paint in order that evening
might nestle down on your palm,
pick up the red paint in order that fire
might flicker and, shimmer and then
pick up the green paint in order that you might
have twigs to throw into flame.
Mix up these paints like you mix up emotions
deep in your heart, after that
mix up the paints and your heart with both heaven
and earth, all in one, after that...
It is important that you burn without
Being disturbed and upset.
Someone may censure you in the beginning
but afterwards will not forget!
I simply put together the threads of thin and delicate yarns of all eight colors mentioned in the poem, sat thoughtful and quiet for a little bit, and came up with the following idea.
The body of this sleeveless sweater is made of 2 center panels (the front one is long, the back one is short), 2 side panels, and a long bottom panel.
Everything except ribbing and bottom panel is made with the same basic stitch:
1 r.(wrong side) all purls
2r. (right side) 1 k., 1 slip the stitch from the left to the right needle.
For the front and back panels the right side of this stitch is used, for the sides – the wrong side.
For the bottom panel an easy cable pattern is used.
2-colored corded trims are used: violet/yellow, violet/green, violet/blue, and violet/red. Like in the poem: be generous with violet…. For the corded trims 8 strands of yarn of each color are used, so make 4 little solid colored balls (violet, yellow, blue, green, and red).
Materials:
Elann Baby Lace Merino (50% baby alpaca, 50% merino wool), lace weight: 1.75 oz (50 grams) = 60 yards (550 m) or the following colors:
Yellow – 2 balls, grey – 2 balls, black – 2 balls, lilac – 3 balls, blue – 2 balls, red – 2 balls, green – 2 balls;
White color - Kartopu (Turkish yarn, 25% tiftik… God knows what this is… and 75% acrylic): 2.5 oz (100 g) = 525 m – 1.5 balls.
Needles:
1) larger needles - number 8 (5mm) or to obtain gauge – 18 sts in 4” (10 cm) worked in the basic stitch.
2) smaller number circular needles: number 3 (3mm).
4 wooden buttons about 1” -1 1/8” (25-28 mm)
1 darning needle – for pretty casting off to get the edges should be nice and stretchy.
Size M.
Note about selvage stitches (ss): Always slip the first stitch in the beginning of each row and purl the last stitch in the end of each row. In such a way you will have a chain of selvage stitches, - one vertical loop for each 2 rows - on each side of a knitted piece. They will be used to simplify row count and later when assembling this particular vest, they will play an important role: because I use inside-out seams, they will form the nice rows on the right side of the sweater.
Cast on 38 sts, work with a basic stitch 42 ss (86 rows), then cast off the central 7 stitches and continue to work each part separately 23 ss more, then cast off in the beginning of every other row 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, and 0 stitches to shape the neckline.
Back central panel. Cast on 38 sts and work evenly 44 ss (88 rows). Cast off all the stitches in the same row.
When finished, spread them and lightly iron wrong sides of both panels through a wet cotton cloth, without pressing. Let them rest until totally dry. Sew them together by the neckline.
Left side panel.
Lilac-yellow corded trim: With lilac yarn (8 strands together) and smaller needles pick up 150 stitches on the left side of the long central panel and work 3 more rows with simple stockinet stitch (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong), then make 3 rows with yellow yarn (8 strands together). Turn the piece to the wrong side and switch to multi-colored yarn. *Insert right needle into the base of the stitch on the first lilac row, corresponding with the first stitch on the left needle, lift this stitch to the left needle and purl it together with the stitch on the needle*. Continue from * to * until all the stitches from the left needle are purled together with corresponding stitches of the first lilac row.
Ribbing inlay. Continue with larger needles. In the next row add evenly 10 stitches and work 6 more rows with 1x1 ribbing with twisted stitches.
Lilac-blue corded trim: continue with lilac yarn (8 strands together) and smaller needles with simple stockinet stitch. In the first lilac row reduce the number of stitches by 10, make 3 more lilac rows (4 total), then make 3 rows with blue yarn (8 strands together). Turn the piece to the wrong side and switch to multi-colored yarn. *Insert right needle into the base of the stitch on the first lilac row, corresponding with the first stitch on the left needle, lift this stitch to the left needle and purl it together with the stitch on the needle*. Continue from * to * until all the stitches from the left needle are purled together with corresponding stitches of the first lilac row. At the same time cast off the last 36 sts in this wrong side row – the bottom panel will be attached here.
Now we have 114 stitches (150-36). We will use the wrong side of our basic stitch for the rest of the side panels. Work straight 8 rows. Mark the middle of the work – between 57 and 58 sts with a pin or colorful thread. Cast off the middle 14+14=28 sts, and work the row to the end. Turn, work the row to the end. Decrease in the beginning of the next and every other row 7 sts – 2 times, 5 sts – 1 time, 3 sts – 1 time, 1 st – 6 times, 0 sts 3 times and bind off. In the same way finish the opposite side of the piece.
In the same way, make the right side panel.
When finished, spread the side panels and lightly iron wrong sides of the basic stitch (not ribbing or cords!) through a wet cotton cloth, without pressing. Let them rest until totally dry and finish the little side seams using mattress seam.
Bottom panel. Cast on 84 sts and work 85 ss (170 rows) with simple reverse stockinet, performing the following stitch pattern:
c2f: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Knit 1, knit the stitch on the cable needle.
t2f: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Purl 1, knit the stitch on the cable needle.
t2b: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit the next stitch, purl the stitch on the cable needle.
c2b: Slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit the next stitch, knit the stitch from the cable needle.
c4f: Slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front of work. Knit 2, knit the stitches on the cable needle.
Row 2 (Wrong Side): k2, p1, k4, p2, k4, p1, k2, p4, k3.
Row 3: p3, k4, p2, [t2f, p2, t2b] 2 times, p2.
Row 4: k3, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k3, p4, k3.
Row 5: p3, c4f, p3, t2f, t2b, p2, t2f, t2b, p3.
Row 6: k4, [p2, k4] 2 times, p4, k3.
Row 7: p3, k4, [p4, c2b] 2 times, p4.
Row 8: k4, [p2, k4] 2 times, p4, k3.
Row 9: p3, c4f, p3, t2b, t2f, p2, t2b, t2f, p3.
Row 10: k3, [p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k3, p4, k3.
Row 11: p3, k4, p2, [t2b, p2, t2f] 2 times, p2.
Row 12: k2, p1, k4, p2, k4, p1, k2, p4, k3.
When finished, spread and lightly press, like all the other details. When totally dry, attach it to the body of the sweater using mattress seam.
Ribbing on the bottom of the sweater can be done with circular needles as one piece but I preferred to do it as 2 pieces with invisible side seams. First half: cast 90 sts on the front, work 14 rows, cut the yarn you have been knitting with, making sure it is at least 3 times as long as the work you want to finish, and cast off all the stitches with a darning needle (for very stretchy and pretty finishing):
Run the darning needle from right to left through the edge stitch, and if the next one is a knit stitch through this one too, if a purl stitch – through this one and the next one too (we need the first stitch on the left needle to be purl); let these stitches slip from the needle and pull the yarn firmly.
Cast on 90 sts on the back, work 14 rows, cast off with a needle and finish side seams.
Lilac-red corded trim: with small needles and lilac yarn cast on 100-104 sts around the armhole and work 3 more rows, switch to red yarn and work 3 rows, then switch to multi-colored yarn, Turn the piece to the wrong side and switch to multi-colored yarn. *Insert right needle into the base of the stitch on the first lilac row, corresponding with the first stitch on the left needle, lift this stitch to the left needle and purl it together with the stitch on the needle*. Continue from * to * until all the stitches from the left needle are purled together with corresponding stitches of the first lilac row.
Using larger needles work 8 rows. Cast off with a needle. Repeat on the other armhole, finish the short under-arm seams.
For the righ buttonband cast on on the edge of the collar and the middle of the sweater 49-50 sts, work straight 8 rows and finish with a needle.
For the left butonband cast on the same number of sts as for the right one and work 3 rows. In the 4-th row make buttonhole (evenly spaced double yo (wrapping the yarn over right –hand needle)). So, starting with the edge of the collar, the double yo (yarn over needle) will be done after 4th, 16th, 28th, and 40th sts. In the next row unwind one of the yos and knit it together with the nearest knit stitch. After the 8-th row cast off all the stitches with a needle and assemble the middle point. Sew the buttons on.
I always try a sweater on right before giving it away....
.... and make lots of pictures.
